Much of Saint Helena’s development over the centuries revolved around military defence and its by-product: fortification.
Fortification
First and second world war gun emplacements are much in evidence on the coast either side of Jamestown. There remain two of these six inch caliber types, installed in 1903, featuring a maximum range of 25,000 yards. They served as the island’s coastal defence for half a century, although there swirls some doubt around their effectiveness had they ever been fired in anger. There is a story that the Graf Spee rounded Saint Helena and was sighted on more than one occasion, that the gunners were itching to fire at her, but were forbidden in the knowledge that the pocket battleship could shell the island in response while remaining safely out of range.
Several others were originally installed, but were moved to England in 1940 in response to the imminent German invasion threat.
Ladder Hill Fort provided an excellent position for the defence of James Bay and the town. However the Germans never attacked the island.
The High Knoll Fort is a redoubt built by the East India Company on the highest point on the island, at an elevation of 584 meters, and concerned primarily with much earlier and different continental enemies.
Its origins are in the very late 18th century, intended to protect the rear approaches to Ladder Hill Fort.
The high ground is commanding. The original tower was upgraded in the 19th century as an expanded redoubt capable of housing the island’s entire population in case of invasion.
It was designed to withstand a short siege, with vegetable gardens and water wells incorporated.
Back down at Ladder Hill Fort, the main entrance is close to Jacob’s Ladder.
The local fleet is moored well out beyond the ‘lift’ of the swell in James Bay.
With the difficult logistics, cruise ships and tourism has not yet invaded this quite special place, and the tyranny of distance keeps the population living in a maritime state that is now consigned to history in most of the world. When the new airport eventually opens, the island experienced herein will be quickly dragged into the modern era, and for better or worse, destined to never be the same again.
Saint Helena was a destination for Kiwi Roa en route to Canada. Ascension Island features beforehand however, a stopover en route transatlantic.